Finally we have been lucky enough to have cold winter weather with lots of snow! Our first heavy snow fell on a quiet Sunday, so we packed up our gear and did a relaxing snow shoe hike with the usual suspects in tow. It seems every village, town, and city has a castle, palace or ruin hidden within its borders, Winhöring is no exception with both a palace and ruins. Schloss Frauenbühl was finished being built in 1730. It’s not the most touristy attraction and unfortunately one can see that regular funding for maintenance is probably non-existent. Regardless the Schloss looked romantic set in snow. Walking from the Schloss we tramped our way through the woods, over some fields, passed some curious goats and found our way in a secluded section where the Unterholznerburg ruins were hidden. I had seen some pictures of the ruins and expected a decaying building covered with graffiti, instead we came across a fenced in half renovated, beautiful brick building. Although I was slightly disappointed not to have an Indiana Jone’s experience, I was pleased to know they are trying to restore some local history.
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The weather is once again wet, cold, and pretty much miserable for hikes and climbs. Luckily though, we got one more hike in before the weather turned. Down one couple from our previous hike, we four headed back to Berchtesgaden and did the “famously" beautiful Wimbachklamm. Unlike most hikes, the Wimbachklamm water attraction costed 2€ per/person and was regulated by a turnstile on both ends. The estimated time displayed for the Wimbachklamm was roughly 30mins, but it probably took our group only 10, and that’s including taking pictures. One could theoretically head back to the car park after seeing the waterfalls, but we had driven 1.5hrs to get some fresh mountain air so we continued on to the Schloss. The Schloss, translated as Castle in English, was not a castle but rather a quaint mountain Alm. We were lucky to find a table before the crowds of people reached us. Due to the popularity and ease of the hike, the Alm was busy and I would also consider a bit overpriced. I enjoyed my Weisswurst (white sausage), but the drinks were watered down, and the portions were small for the price, but hey it is a tourist hotspot. If we have visitors that are limited in mobility or fitness I may do this hike again, but if it’s just me and Dominic, we both agreed it’s a one and done type hike. These are photos from the Wimbachklamm paid section. The entire path, although short, is filled with cascading water and beautiful shots. It was a challenge taking pictures without heads of strangers cropping up or being in the way of other visitors, but I was able to manage a few shots before being swept away by the crowds. There was still snow in the mountains and the water was icy cold. The hiking crew on our last adventure. One day Dominic and I will take a pretty picture. Other than the lens flare I think Anne and Tonys picture looks pretty romantic.
Up until last weekend, the weather in Germany has been a bit loopy. We had snow, then 20C and sunny, then back to cold and cloudy. There was one point where I thought we changed to summer tires too soon. Now the days are a bit more normalized, with sunny and cool forecasts, absolutely perfect weather for the Mountains. Even better than the weather many of the hikes opened last weekend. To celebrate, Dominic, I and two other couples in our friend group, decided to take a nice stroll through the Aschauer Klamm tour in the beautiful hiking region of Berchtesgaden.The hike itself is very family friendly and took us a little over 3hrs to complete. For much of the hike we followed a beautiful well maintain path along a large stream with rushing waterfalls. There is a lovely Gasthaus where one can drink a Radler and enjoy brotzeit before or after the main part of the hike. Our misfit crew of hikers, taking in the beautiful weather and views.
In early July we hit the road and discovered a bit more of Germany and our relationship on a week long road trip. With hangovers, from the previous days graduation celebrations, on a record high hot a day, we found ourselves in medieval Germany. Initially I thought I drunkenly clamored in “Doc” Browns Delorean, but my fears were abated when I recognized the tell-tale signs of modern day tourist rocking the socks and sandals and speaking loud English. We were not in medieval Germany but rather in a town majorly unmolested by modern architecture, untouched from war, and wholly beautiful and historical, we were in Bamberg. Bamberg is an UNESCO world heritage site since 1993 but with some very strict regulations in order to remain so. When a building that is under “Denkmalschutz” or monument protection is so destroyed that it cannot be repaired, then the new building in its place needs to be completely modern and not a “Kitschig” or cheap version of what was once there. When walking around one could safely assume a building that looked historical was in fact older than the United States. We were only in Bamberg for a few short hours, but Dominic took a very informative 2hr walking tour around the town, while I tagged along and took pictures. Sadly my hangover, the heat, and my lack of understanding anything other Hochdeutsch, had me pretty confused as to what our tour guide had said. Our guide was friendly and tried to engage with me, and every once in awhile dropped some knowledge in english, but for the most part, most of it went over my head. Dominic did his best to translate parts I didn’t understand, but it was challenging because our tour guide was full of knowledge and never stopped talking. After a while I zoned out and really just took in the beauty of the town. The traces of modern, mixed with American, mixed with historical german structures was extremely eye pleasing. Even the doors and window treatments had beautiful details one could miss if they only focused on the main sites. Other than architecture, Bamberg is also known for its many breweries, and a smoked beer. We still had a few hours on the road ahead of us, and with the heated hangovers, had no desire to have a drink. We both agreed Bamberg warrants another visit and this way we can try some of the famous brews. It’s only a few hours drive and I think it would be a fun weekend getaway with friend. Bamberg was totally worth it. I agree with that statement. Shamefully i must admit; Bamberg has been one of those places that i’ve always kinda skipped out on. Like that distant relative or friend you always intend to visit but somehow never really make time for. Once you actually do find some time to visit though, you’re more then surprised and wonder why you never bothered to visit before, cause you’ve just had a wonderful time. Bamberg is a real jewel of a town. It’s small and easy to get around in and even for an European who has seen his fair share of medieval ... it’s really marvelous . Most of the houses are real old “Fachwerk” and thankfully survived WWII. While walking around, you can feel the smooth Cobblestone streets beneath your feet and can imagine how they’ve been run on for centuries. One main sight is the old city council hall (Rathaus), built in the middle of a river. Its story, like that of pretty much any other old building in Bamberg, is full with funny, fascinating and historical facts. The above pictures are different angles of the “Altes Rathaus”, old Town hall. It was built in the middle of the river (1386) and is accessible by two bridges on either side The following photos are some fun shots I took of doors and random details. Here are also some details I found interesting and, in some cases creepy, in a few of the churches/cathedrals.
Living in Europe has afforded me easier and cheaper travel opportunities especially compared to living on Hawaii. Dominic and I are able to drive a few hours and find ourselves in a completely different country, culture, and language. Sometimes with the ease of exploring new corners of our European neighbors we forget that we have wonderful sites in our own backyard. Many of these magical tourist spots where designed and built by the mad fairytale King, Ludwig II of Bavaria. He bankrupted the State of Bavaria designing, building, and redesigning during the building of some of Bayern's world renowned castles and palaces. On a beautiful autumn day, we loaded up a van with friends, snacks, and adventure, to explore our own backyard in Bayern. Neuschwanstein CastleThe most famous Castle in Bayern is most likely Neuschwanstein. It is believed that Neuschwanstein was the influence for Walt Disney’s own trademark and the Castle in the film Sleeping beauty. The secluded castle was initially made as a refuge for the eccentric King only to be open to the paying public upon his death. Sadly Ludwig died before the castle was complete and to this day it is relatively empty. His personal rooms are the only rooms relatively decorated. From photos the castle seems large, but in person one notices, that although there is a great attention to detail, the castle is actually quite small. What many also do not realize is the castle is how relatively new it is and that it was built with more modern means compared to many well known castles throughout Germany. Linderhof PalaceA short drive from Neuschwanstein is Linderhof Palace, which is beautifully set within formal gardens. The palace and the gardens were inspired by Versailles. If one doesn’t want to pay for the tour of the actual palace, just walking the gardens is enough to enjoy a little bit of what Royal life for Ludwig must have been like. Ludwig spent most of his life at Linderhof Palace surrounded by his hall of mirrors, gardens, and even his own Grotto. We weren’t able to take pictures within the Palace, although I snapped one before I read the no photo sign (the angel ceiling motif). We were able to take photos of the grotto where Ludwig enjoyed private Operas. How decadent. Although King Ludwig II nearly bankrupted Bavaria by bringing his fantasies to life, today those same cash drains bring in lots of money from millions of visitors a year.
Tips: When visiting the Neuschwanstien Castle it is best to book tickets in advance if you are wanting to do the inside tour. You can also enjoy the Castle without doing the tour. I never thought I would love genuine winters, Hawaiian winters don’t count. As a kid winters were great, they meant snow days and violent snow wars but as an adult winter is synonymous with frigid temperatures, an eternal flu, perpetually cold hands and feet, and overall grey and unpleasantly boring days. When I moved to Germany I didn’t have the most positive thoughts about winter but I really tried to keep an open mind, and luckily I did. After being equipped with better winter clothing I learned a valuable lesson in German mentality. “The weather is never bad, one is just poorly dressed.” So that really fits into he stereotype of German tourists wearing lots of Gortex, and seemingly overly prepared.
Dressed in my rain, wind, and cold proof coat, pants, and shoes I am able to take on winter and punch her right in her icy face. Ok, not really. Winter has been that horrendous but I am better prepared and I am able to enjoy winter sports without worry of freezing and or annoying Dominic with my constant cries for heat. Some of the winter activities I’ve taken up are skiing (falling down slopes), normal snowy walks in the woods, and more recently snow shoe hiking. A group of us sampled a 2.5 hr trek in the fresh snow of Berchtesgaden and it was absolutely breathtaking, both from strain and beauty. We enjoyed our time so much that we all decided to purchase snow shoes and pick up a new winter hobby. This is a few weeks late but earlier in December I enjoyed a Christmas market in the woods. It was cold and refreshing. The air smelled of pine, glühwein, sausages, chestnuts and cinnamon. Of all the places I’ve celebrated Christmas, Germany has been by far the best and most authentic. Even without snow the festiveness of each weihnachtsmarkt enhances the feel of Christmas.
Many larger villages have their own Christmas market, so it can get monotonous and repetitive seeing the same stalls and the same kitchy items for sale but this market in the woods had its own nitch. The set up of the market was beautifully done. Every decoration and stall was thought through and no detail went missing. Paths weaved between the forest lit only by candles and the occasional decorative lamp. If snow covered the ground it would have been a romantically magical setting. Thanks to Christoph Waltz, many Americans were introduced to Krampus! The ever intimidating helper of Saint Nicholas, who’s mere presence scares children into obedience let alone the horror stories of stuffing bad kids into bags and beating them good. Krampus are an interesting aspect of German speaking Alpine folklore. Another aspect that many confuse as Krampus are Perchten. Perchten, similar to Krampus, are the stuff of nightmares. Huge grotesque masks and large animalistic bodies are cringe worthy, but Perchten intentions are not to scare children rather they bring good luck for the new year and attempt to scare away the ghosts and evil of the previous year. I was fortunate enough to attend the 60th anniversary of the Perchten run in Kirchseeon, a small town about 30km outside of Munich. The weather was unfortunate, cold and very wet. The rain made the Perchten glean with ferocity and the steam from heated bodies added an additional intimidation factor, but sadly the wet and cold also froze my toes and soaked Dominic. The weather was unfavorable but the show was very interesting and worth the cold. Der Winter kommt is the German version of “winter is coming”, a famous line from my favorite family the Starks, from the book and television series Game of Thrones. After living in Hawaii for the past 5 years, I’m not looking forward to the cold and snow that is in my future. To me winter in Germany will be exactly how it’s portrayed for John Snow at the wall, constant Dark, heavy snow fall, and winter monsters. So to enjoy the good weather as much as possible Dominic and I did one last Alpine trek. We wandered up to the Hochgern, which is situated near the Hochfelln we did a few weeks prior. A similar view as the previous expedition but a much more arduous climb. The top was busy with other wanderers which encouraged us to quickly head back down to a quiet Alm for some brotzeit and bier.
Ok so yeah debby downer here to strike again!
What’s there to say about Oktoberfest that you haven’t already assumed? Overcrowded yes, drunken yes, touristy yes, lederhosen and dirndls yes, expensive yes, fun? Hmmm. Oktoberfest is a massive party in the heart of München. Germany is already known for it’s lenient drinking laws (drinking on the train or street is perfectly allowed), but why not add 2 weeks from Sept 20-Oct 5, of festivities to encourage tourists to drink themselves stupid? I don’t want to sound like a wet blanket but all who know me know I hate massive crowds. Perhaps I wouldn’t have been so overwhelmed if we went during a weekday instead of a holiday. Perhaps I would have had more fun if we just sat in a beer tent and watched the shenanigans going on. Instead I was stuck at armpit height being pushed by the crowds. Even if I wanted to stop and look at the many attractions, I kept getting swept away by a wave of people. I enjoyed the company I was with and when we lucked out and found a table to seat 8, I really enjoyed the food and beer. Other than my vegetarian friend, who could complain about oxen, railers, baked chicken, and amazingly good cabbage, the works!? To be perfectly honest I’m sure if my drinks were more potent I would have enjoyed myself more, but instead the 0.5 l lemonade and 0.5 l beer concoction just tested the capacity of my bladder. Sadly, not all the bathrooms were well marked with exception of the free ones. Yes I said free ones, the others you had to pay 1 euro or more. So I had to run all over the site to find the free toilets. Thankfully the bathroom queues moved quickly and I was relieved within 5 minutes of standing in line. Unfortunately I walked out just in time to barely miss getting hit by an ambulance or ambushed by officers escorting a bleeding vagrant. It’s unfortunate that the Oktoberfest that started as a celebration in 1810 of a royal marriage, which included horse races and an agriculture emphasize has turned into 7 million people visiting Munich for drunken debauchery. Don’t know what I mean? Look up Munich pukes and you’ll see evidence in colorful pictures. A personal example I witnessed: it was a little past 2 when one poor soul stooped down by us to fall asleep against a wall. Others followed in suit, some with care takers, many left behind as the weak link, all with the classic head bob from side to side and spittle stains on either shoes or shirts. After all is said and done I always ask myself “Was it worth it?” I would still say it was worth it, at least for the experience, but I highly doubt I’ll go again, but if I did I would go early during the week with the rest of the old folks. |
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